Alaska!!! Ham & Eggs on the Moose’s Tooth

Food and supplies for our Moose's Tooth Climb

In 2014, I had a trip to Alaska planned, to climb the Ham & Eggs route on the Moose’s Tooth.  However, icefall closed down the glacier landing access, and the trip got cancelled. I scheduled another trip to Moose’s Tooth for May of 2015, and kept my fingers crossed, hoping for good conditions. The trip… Continue reading Alaska!!! Ham & Eggs on the Moose’s Tooth

Backcountry Skiing in the Sawtooth Range

 Guided Hut to Hut skiing in Idaho’s Sawtooth Range with Sun Valley Trekking March 16-20, 2015 For the past few seasons, I’ve done a multi-day backcountry ski trip with a group of friends.   So far, we’ve done a traverse of the Teton Crest traverse, a Sierra trip from Mammoth to Lee Vining Canyon, and a… Continue reading Backcountry Skiing in the Sawtooth Range

Mount Helen, Tower 1 Gully

Google Earth Image of Mount Helen's Tower 1 Gully

September 25-27, 2014 Tower 1 Gully on Mount Helen is considered the premier alpine ice climb in Wyoming’s Wind River Range.  It’s a long, moderate alpine ice route that has been on my hit list for a while.  Opportunities for climbing ice in the fall are not that common in my area of the country,… Continue reading Mount Helen, Tower 1 Gully

Alpine Rock, Part 2: Washington Pass

After climbing in the Bugaboos, we decided to head back down to the U.S. in search of good weather and good climbing.   We ended up at Washington Pass. Our first objective was Burgundy Spire.  We decided to climb it via the West Ridge of Paisano Pinnacle, which is a 5.9 variation that adds 7 or… Continue reading Alpine Rock, Part 2: Washington Pass

Alpine Rock, Part 1: Bugaboos

Snowpatch Spire, viewed from McTech Arete

It has been more than 20 years since I last visited the Bugaboos.  I had planned three trips since then, and actually bought plane tickets twice, but my partners always seemed to drop out on me, usually at the last minute.  Every year it seemed like the Bugaboos was on my list of places to… Continue reading Alpine Rock, Part 1: Bugaboos

Backcountry Skiing in the Tetons at the Baldy Knoll Yurt

Fresh powder in the Teton backcountry

For the past three years, me and a group of friends have done a backcountry ski tour together. Last year, we did a Sierra tour, and the year before, we did a tour in the Tetons. This year, we got back together, but rather than do a point to point traverse, we decided to rent… Continue reading Backcountry Skiing in the Tetons at the Baldy Knoll Yurt

Desert Ice Climbing: Hidden Haven Falls

The first ice step, at the entrance to Hidden Haven

Hidden Haven is a red rock canyon in southern Utah.  It’s not far from Parowan, on the road to Brian Head ski resort.  In winter, the falls at the top of this narrow canyon freezes up, providing one of the most aesthetic ice climbs I’ve ever experienced.  I’m used to climbing frozen waterfalls, but climbing… Continue reading Desert Ice Climbing: Hidden Haven Falls

Skyward Mountaineering: Winter Alpine Climbing Intensive Workshop

Vince Anderson, headed up the ice to set up a directional anchor

Skyward Mountaineering is a guide service operated by alpinists Steve House and Vince Anderson.  In addition to offering guided climbs both locally and internationally, they also teach instructional workshops focusing on various aspects of climbing.  I was lucky enough to participate in their  three day Winter Alpine Climbing Intensive Workshop. The workshop took place in… Continue reading Skyward Mountaineering: Winter Alpine Climbing Intensive Workshop

Backcountry Skiing in the Sierras (Mammoth to Tioga Pass)

Our first camp

The last week in March, me and 3 friends skied from Mammoth Lakes to Tioga Pass.  We started skiing Tuesday morning, and reached the car Saturday, early afternoon.   We passed through some truly spectacular country.  Here are some details of our trip. We drove to Lee Vining, and left our car at a parking… Continue reading Backcountry Skiing in the Sierras (Mammoth to Tioga Pass)