La Minarette
This is the clothing and equipment I carried with me on the S.E. spur of la Minarette, an alpine rock climb. It was early September, and the weather was pretty good. I was climbing with a guide, who supplied the rack and group gear, so that is not part of this list.
My comments are in italics.
Clothing:
Silkweight capilene top and bottoms (B-) Can’t deal with heavy perspiration, lightweight top would have been better. Now I use Lowe Alpine’s “dryflow” lightweight top. Bottoms were fine.
Synchilla earband (A) Used to keep ears warm and keep sweat out of eyes. Worked well on both accounts
O.R. windstopper skull cap Not needed
Patagonia R1 Fleece zip t-neck Used briefly on the approach. Seemed to function well. Too warm for the actual climbing.
Patagonia Talus top (A-) I used a wash in water-resistance treatment that compromised wicking ability. Need to wash out nikwax treatment and apply to outside only to restore wicking. Breathes very well, cuts wind well, with the silkweight t-shirt, the talus top was adequate for the entire climb and descent.
Megalith bigwall pants (A) Good protection, comfortable, wind resistant, breathable.
Lowe “Adrenaline” rain jacket and pants The weather was good, so I didn’t use them. They fold up very small and weigh very little.
Marmot leather spring skiing gloves (B) Good multifunction warm weather climbing gloves with excellent dexterity. They dry slowly.
Windstopper fleece Fingerless gloves (A) Adequate warmth, dry quickly good dexterity
Smartwool liner socks (A) kept feet comfortable in climbing shoes all day.
Smartwool mountaineer socks (B) feet were comfortable, but socks are beginning to deform and grow a bit. Should probably go down a size.
Boreal Ballet Gold climbing shoes (A) Comfortable, excellent performance for granite. good friction, crack shoe. Wore all day with no complaints.
Petzl Ecrin Helmet (A-) Never really noticed I had it on. A little lighter and it would be perfect.
Sportiva Baltoro approach boots (A) relatively light weight. Good for scrambling, downclimbing and approaches. Comfortable and agile on boulder fields and trails. Stepped in a large, deep puddle on the glacier, and foot remained dry.
Personal Gear:
McHale ultralight climbing pack (A) never interfered with climbing, except in chimneys when any pack would. Carried well on approach and descent too. Evazote pad compartment holds hydration bladder very well.
Mountain Tools gear slings for pack (A-) Gear sling attachment could be more accessible
Petzl headlamp with new battery (A) reliable, easy
Ultimate direction water bag with tube (A) fits nicely in pack, old-style valve doesn’t leak, unlike new bite valve types
Swiss army knife (B-) Has everything, but is a bit heavy for climbing. Should have brought the smaller one.
Suunto Vector watch (worn around neck) (A) well designed. Wearing on neck alleviates size issues. Altimeter was very accurate.
Prescription Glasses with strap
Prescription Sunglasses (Cebe Frames) (A-) Didn’t use them except on the approach to the hut. Don’t fog up as much as some I’ve used.
Nikon 28Ti camera with case, film and extra roll of film. B+ Should have brought my GR1 and carried it in my pocket instead of carrying the 28ti on the pack strap.
First aid kit (stripped down); Didn’t use it
Toilet paper
Tube of Sun screen
Personal Climbing Gear:
Grivel “Airtech” 60 cm ice axe (A) Light, well designed
Stubai aluminum crampons (A+) Ultralight, work well on glacial ice and neve. Binding is a bit bulky, but fits to boots very securely.
Mammut “Peak” alpine harness (A) Light, simple, tie in loop is high so it doesn’t interfere with pack waist-belt.
Tuber, Locking biner
Spider mitts (A) Great for granite. Provide both improved jamming and hand protection.
small roll of finger tape
Food (3 cliff bars, 2 cliff shots) (B-; A-) My favorite of the energy foods. Wouldn’t you know it that the cliff shots are being discontinued.
Chalk bag
Webolette, (D) I found no circumstance where either a clove hitch with the rope, or a regular double length runner wasn’t faster and/or more convenient or more versatile. I’m not quite sure why anyone uses these
Super Long Dong nut tool w/ sling Didn’t use, Pierre didn’t place much protection, and what he did place came out easily.
2 Lowe “D-25” accessory ‘biners (A-) 25 gram accessory biners rated to 1700 kg
2 locking ‘biners